Sands and mud are continually being transported around the world’s coastal seas due to the action of tides, wind and waves.
The transport of these sediments modifies the boundary between the land and the sea, changing and reshaping its form. Sometimes
the nearshore bathymetry evolves slowly over long time periods, at other times more rapidly due to natural episodic events
or the introduction of manmade structures at the shoreline. For over half a century we have been trying to understand the
physics of sediment transport processes and formulate predictive models. Although significant progress has been made, our
capability to forecast the future behaviour of the coastal zone from basic principles is still relatively poor. However, innovative
acoustic techniques for studying the fundamentals of sediment movement experimentally are now providing new insights, and
it is expected that such observations, coupled with developing theoretical works, will allow us to take further steps towards
the goal of predicting the evolution of coastlines and coastal bathymetry. This paper presents an overview of our existing
predictive capabilities, primarily in the field of non-cohesive sediment transport, and highlights how new acoustic techniques
are enabling our modelling efforts to achieve greater sophistication and accuracy. The paper is aimed at coastal scientists
and managers seeking to understand how detailed physical studies can contribute to the improvement of coastal area models
and, hence, inform coastal zone management strategies.
Keywords Waves - Currents - Wave–current interaction - Modelling turbulence and coherent structures - Seabed boundary layer - Sediment transport - Coastal morphological modelling